Monday, February 6th, 2012

Underbust Corsets

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Beginner corsets are corsets that are easy to adjust and should be worn by those who have never worn a corset before. There are three different types of beginner corsets:

  1. The underbust corset is traditionally used for tightlacing and offers a very small waist reduction, typically no more than four inches. If the wearer has an original waist of larger than 38”, a waist reduction of six inches is allowable.
  2. The posture corset is similar to an underbust corset except that it covers the hip area and the waist reduction is moderate.
  3. Other corsets for beginners such as pair of stays or redresseur corsets.

Underbust corsets sit just at the top of the hips and extend up to just under the breasts. This is the traditional underbust corset. Some of the newer ones also extend over the hips and some are called corset dresses because they actually go down to the knees as a dress would.

Another type of underbust corset is called a waist cincher because it only covers the waist region. It starts low in the ribcage region and stops well above the hips.

Underbust corsets are traditionally used to support the shape of a particular dress. A cover may be placed over it to protect the dress for the fastenings on the corset and to eliminate any lines the corset may leave.

Most underbust corsets are made of some sort of flexible material, like cloth or leather. They are then stiffened with steel or plastic boning. In the past, boning was made from whalebone (thus the term boning) or featherbone. Goose quill, ivory, cane, and wood have also been used.

Underbust corsets are typically held together by some type of lacing in the back. The shape and firmness of the corset can be changed by loosening or tightening the corset. The corset can be laced top to bottom, or bottom to top, depending on the effect and appearance desired by the wearer. Many corsets have a busk, a hooked or buttoned opening in the front. The busk allows the wearer to have the corset laced once, then take it on and off many times by simply unfastening the hook or button in the front.

The key to using a busk effectively is to get the lacing adjusted to your liking, then use the front opening to remove and put on the the corset. The problem with this is that the lacing must still be loosened prior to removal or the busk can be damaged irreparably.

If the goal is tightlacing to reduce the waist size, then self-lacing is almost impossible. In the past, a servant or maid was utilized for lacing a corset. Nowadays, the partner or spouse of the wearer is usually helpful in securing the lacing to the desired fit.

The making of the underbust corset is an art form known as corsetry. This is a term also applied to the wearing of the corset. The person who crafts the corset is called a corsetiere.

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